Click here for details. This is the source for tech tips, blue prints, drawings and plans for the do it yourself automotive hobbyist. Regardless of the type of vehicle you are building we have the products and free information that will save you time and money. For the more challenging projects we offer blueprints and detailed instructions to help the backyard builder turn his dream into reality at a cost he can afford. Read more I have been building and enjoying HotRods for over 37 years now.
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Model A Frame Plans.Professionally drawn, fully-dimensioned engineering drawings that show every aspect of Mustang II Street Rod Front Suspension construction. The plans with work with stock or dropped spindles, as well as stock or aftermarket control arms. Standard or a wide variety of aftermarket coil springs and shocks can be used. Coil over shocks an be used with aftermarket control arms. Originally, the Mustang II IFS became popular with street rodders not only because it was relatively easy to install, compared to a subframe swap, but also because it handles so well and provides better brakes and a rack and pinion steering option as a bonus.
Over the years numerous street rod shops produced their own Mustang II IFS kits, made up of the Mustang II aftermarket suspension components and their own fabrications of the critical key structure made up of the crossmember, spring towers and steering rack mounts.
Why pay big bucks to some rod shop when you can make your own suspension for a fraction of the cost? The Mustang II Front Suspension we show you how to build in our plans looks and works the same but costs a whole lot less!
In addition to the drawings listed below you also will receive full installation instructions as well as important information on how to choose which options will work for your car. You will receive professionally drawn, fully-dimensioned engineering drawings that show every aspect of Mustang II Street Rod Front Suspension construction. Jason Gaunce — November 13, Great prints at a great price, I copied the dimensions onto some poster board and used those as templates onto steel and built a crossmember with ease.
These plans are great from basic to advanced fabrication skills. Also a great addition to any hot rodders library. Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Home About Shop Cart Contact 0.
Materials are inexpensive and readily available. The cost for materials is only a small fraction of what a rod shop kit costs!
You can do it yourself with these plans! Assembly is easy and requires no more tools than it would to mount the suspension using one of those expensive chassis shop kits. These detailed, simple plans show you how to take the raw materials and shape them to the correct dimensions the same way the hot rod shops do it. In addition to the drawings listed below you will also receive full installation instructions as well as important information on how to choose which options will work for your car.
Plans include 3D views of all parts and assemblies to make fabrication and installation easier than ever. You do not need to know how to read blueprints to use these plans. Application: Universal fit for most Street Rodstrucks, custom cars and drag cars. Options: Fully adjustable ride height. Locate the front wheels where you want them front to back. The plans with work with a stock or dropped spindles, as well as stock or aftermarket control arms. The drawing package includes both the plans to build the front end and a second set showing how to install the front end.
All drawings are of professional quality developed using the latest in CAD computer aided design software. The computer-drawn plans permits the proper geometry to be developed so that the suspension on your build will be the same quality that professional rod shops sell.Then download your plans immediately using the blue download link on the Checkout page.
Along the way, he was the beneficiary of a lot of knowledge much of it passed along as constructive criticism by older hot rod builders who wanted to help someone with not quite as much experience as they had at that point.
In the same vein, Ron put together a set of free T-Bucket plans based on the way he had been building them since the late s up to These free plans show you how to build a T-Bucket basic chassis because Ron wanted to share his knowledge just as his many hot rod mentors did.
No Charge — Our Gift to You! STEP 2: Then, download your plans by clicking on the blue download link on the Checkout page, as shown below. Or, when you receive your confirming email from us just click on the link in the email to download your plans. Category: T-Bucket Plans. Author Recent Posts. Follow me.
How to Download Your Free T-Bucket Frame Plans
John Morehead. Founder at TBucketPlans. T-Bucket fanatic since when my 8 year old eyes became glued to a full page LIFE magazine photo of Norm Grabowski in the wildest hot rod I had ever seen! I was hooked for life on T-Bucket hot rods! That led to a friendship with Chester and our partnership in marketing the updated eBook version of his T-Bucket building bible.
The T-Bucket fire burns stronger and stronger. Latest posts by John Morehead see all. Reviews There are no reviews yet.Building a hot rod frame is not for a novice unless you have a seasoned metalworking buddy who's built a hot rod chassis before.
But it's fun! So get to it. You can build your own hot rod or even sell the chassis and then move on to another welding or metalworking project. With that said, lets begin by the way the chassis and jig images are very basic and we are going to update them in a few weeks, thanks for your patience big guy.
When looking to develop your welding skills, even when at a very high level, there is nothing better than advanced welding projects.
Street Rod / Hot Rod
The issue many have with advanced welding projects is that a welder is normally at a very high standard so will only want ot undertake projects that they feel will benefit them in honing their skill and also building something of use. Today we are going to talk about building a Hot Rod framesomething that many welding enthusiasts who also have a love for cars will certainly enjoy.
While a hot rod chassis may look basic to the untrained eye, it is actually the back bone or spine to the whole hot rod. A hot rod chassis is the frame that holds the whole hot rod vehicle together. A chassis and a frame are pretty much the same thing so don't get confused as we use one or the other Without further adieu its time to get involved and show you one of the greatest advanced welding projects where you can build your very own hot rod frame.
Before you can even build your hot rod chassis you will need a jig to maneuver your chassis and support your building process. In light of this we will talk about building the jig, then talk about building the hot rod chassis. To build a hot rod frame jig you need a few lengths of 5cm box section and four trolley wheels. First you need to measure out three lengths of 1. This will means you end up with an image like below:.
After this measure the space between the three longer lengths horizontally and cut and weld small pieces of box section between so you have the below jig:. Throughout the process ensure that the hot rod frame jig is as flat as possible.
Now you can weld the four trolley wheels onto the jig, one on each corner. The idea of the jig is to give you a flat and portable work space as the hot rod frame will be heavy in weight once complete.
To build your hot rod chassis you will need box section, metal plate and a good welder, oh and you will need to follow the below instructions. You will now have a hot rod chassis that fits the dimensions in width and length you require and that will also be the right design to house all the vehicle parts you need, similar to the below:.
To ensure your hot rod chassis has the strength and stability required you can take your metal plate and cut this into the same width and length of the front and rear box section. Now you can weld these on to the underside of your chassis at these sections, this will add strength to these areas where the most stress is caused.The street rod is a production-based vehicle that is stylized and modified to increase performance.
While not originally designed for sanctioned racing, the street rod was one of the original types of drag race car. Street rod owners vied for victory and glory in informal races on rural roads and city streets. Street Rods can be characterized as production vehicles modified with artistic body alterations and performance enhancing parts.
Most vehicles which have their performance increased "Hopped up" are modified to drag race Drive as fast as possible in a straight line. Street Rods can have many artistic alterations, some of which include changing body panel shapes, chopping or lowering the rooflines, and lowering the ride height.
Paint jobs that turn the vehicles into unique rolling works of art are also popular. Builders may also chrome plate components to provide a mirror like shine, and replace painted engine parts with chromed parts. Street Rods usually start life as a collectible vehicle. Vintage ssMuscle ss and modern performance cars s and beyond are the base vehicles usually used. Depending on whether your street rod goals include performance, the level of knowledge required will vary.
To restore a vintage vehicle and change its styling will require knowledge of bodywork fabrication, restoration techniques, interior upholstery techniques, and vehicle paints among others. To modify the chassisdriveline or suspension will require design knowledge in these areas. Suspension changes are especially critical to your vehicles handling and should be well understood and well designed. If the goal is to race the car, then additional safety elements Roll bar, roll structure may be potentially required.
It can be useful when designing your street rod to have a working knowledge in handling, chassissuspension, powertrain, aerodynamics and safety. These six areas of knowledge will help you to understand the customization possibilities for your project. If a particular customization is of special interest, you can learn more advanced knowledge in the areas that apply.
Weight Distribution: If modifying your car for drag racing, weight transfer to the driving tires upon launch will provide the highest level of grip.
Building a Simple Hot Rod Chassis From Scratch
The greater the weight transferred the better. However, the front tires must continue to provide steering capability. If the vehicle has a high center of gravity CG and light front-end, the acceleration may create enough rotational force to actually lift the front end and flip the vehicle.
In that case, wheelie bars should be considered. Suspension: If lowering your vehicle, the suspension geometry should be considered. For double-wishbone or unequal length a-arm types, the camber change created by lowering can be reduced. For Macpherson strut types, the camber change may be too negative to provide a proper contact patch from the tire. If modifying your car for drag racing, there are some suspension components that may need to be considered.In a previous tech articlewe showed you how to build a cheap, simple chassis table you could use to build or modify your frame on.
Also, the heavier tubing has a gentler curve on the outside of the tubing that I like better. With my tubing laid on the table, I decided to start from the front of the chassis and work my way back. I started by putting the table on a nice flat spot on the shop floor and adjusting the table until it was level everywhere. I then printed out stock Model A and Ford V8 frame specs to use for guidance when laying out my chassis. I left a little bit of material in the front to add a pair of factory A frame horns.
From there, we needed to angle the rails outward, as the frame gets wider in the rear. The important part for me here was to hit the factory width of the rails at the cowl so it slipped down tightly over them when I channeled the body. Because of this, I let the frame rails continue to naturally angle out from the factory frame width at the cowl. Once the rails were squared up and I was happy with the measurements, I clamped the rails down to the table and added bracing to keep the rails fixed at the width I wanted so I could fine tune everything.
I again checked that my frame rails were square with each other and the width was correct, then measured out the engine bay spacing. In this case, that is determined by the distance from the center of the front cross member to the firewall.
As silly as it may sound, these first measurements are probably the most important part of building a car chassis from scratch. Just about everything you do until the car is built will be referenced off of those lines. Double, triple and quadruple-check that those suckers are dead-on! I then clamped the cross member in place so that it was sitting with five degrees of caster.
I again checked my measurements by measuring diagonally from the corners of the same hole on the cross member on each side and the firewall data lines we set already. Really make sure you dial this in before welding! I then welded the cross member in with the MIG and we had a base to build our front suspension off of.
While I was on a roll, I took a pair of factory Model A front frame horns and welded them onto to the extra material we left sticking in front of the cross member. With the front portion of the frame started, I was ready to make some modifications to get the front end of the car sitting how I wanted.
This method has become more popular over the years as it allows you to lower the front a little more and gives the frame a nice curvy appearance similar to that of the Ford frames that are a few years newer. There are a couple ways to do this. One of them is to take a pie cut out of the top of the frame just in front of the firewall to bring the frame up all in one spot and weld.
I wanted to accentuate the sweep, so I decided to space a number of thin slices across the top of the frame.We will announce when we are able to resume regular ordering and shipments.
Thank you for your understanding.
Follow the step-by-step construction of a complete chassis, including suspension, for a Ford roadster pickup. The full description below details how comprehensive and informative this DVD is. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a really great video is worth a million! Thanks to hot rod builder par excellenceBob Hamiltonyour prayers have been answered. Get ready to spend literally half a day with Bob as he welcomes you into his shop, lets you look over his shoulder while he builds a hot rod chassis and shares with you one-on-one his accumulated knowledge from decades of hot rod building — the right way.
Add to cart. Or, if you prefer, mail check payable to Street Rod Inc. Diamond Valley Dr. George, UT Please allow 5 business days after receipt for check clearance. Bill Campana in Ohio — I have been a hot rodder for fifty years, and have watched this video over and over. Each time I watch it I learn something new. Bob Hamilton does a great job of presenting the information very clearly. Rick in Oregon verified owner — This was an excellent DVD. Very informative, very well produced, and enjoyable to watch.
Rick in Illinois verified owner — This is super informative and very well thought out. This is how true craftsmanship in performed and better yet explained in an easy to understand video format. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Dan in Montana — Not really my style of car but the information was outstanding. Lots of great tips, tricks and ideas. I have incorporated much of what I learned into my own build. Very well done! David in New Mexico — You can tell Bob is a true street rodder with a desire to make his knowledge available to all who are interested in the hobby.
It is very concise with many different ideas he has perfected over the years. This info will help anyone with a desire to learn. All of the videos are Great stuff! Mike Maddock — Great video, full of useful information. I viewed it before fabricating my first streetrod chassis.
It was a huge help! Bill Haller in Georgia —
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